A Beautiful Sunday in Kodiak

It was a beautiful sunny day, the first one we’d seen in a while. I took advantage of the weather and decided to go for a walk around town. Since we were docked at the Ferry Terminal, the first thing I did was to visit the Kodiak Visitors Center right around in front.

Kodiak Ferry Terminal

The people there were very nice and helpful. They gave me some good ideas for things to do and answered a bunch of my questions. What I really wanted to do while in Kodiak was to see the world famous Kodiak bears. They told me it wasn’t really the best time to see them yet (they’re most active later in the year when the salmon are spawning). Since I was limited on time I didn’t bother trying to connect with a guide with a floatplane as they suggested.

Kodiak History Museum

I was looking forward to checking out the Kodiak History Museum, right across the street. I was disappointed to see that it was closed (only open Wed-Sat). I could only peek through the windows in the old house and take a walk around the grounds to see some statues and grave markers from hundreds of years ago. That led me around to the Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Church. This place is famous as being the oldest in the country- established in 1794. It’s characteristic blue onion domes are a reminder of the days when the Russians occupied Alaska. The parish priest was actually canonized and became a saint (Saint Herman) due to his efforts in behalf of the native Alutiiq people. His casket still remains here.

I took a few photos outside and took a quick look inside, but they were holding Sunday services so I didn’t stick around too long. I would have liked a closer look at some of the icons and other religious objects inside but not enough to hang around through the entire ceremony. Outside they were preparing a bar-b-que and I stopped to ask a few questions. “What is there to do around here on a Sunday morning?”. “Well, you could join us for a bar-b-que”, the men told me. “There’s not much else”, they said. But they did tell me about some nice trails for hiking and recommended a couple of restaurants for later (it was still even too early for lunch).

Up the block was a small park celebrating the original Alutiiq people, the Alutiiq Ancestors’ Memorial. A unique gateway led into the park, insides covered with small metallic salmon- an indication of how important these fish were for them. It was a nice place to rest for a few minutes and read about some of the native people and their history.

Continuing up the street, I was looking for the Alutiiq Museum. I was interested in learning more about the history and culture of the native people here. Sadly, it was closed for renovations until 2025.

I circled back around, hoping to visit the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, but it was closed too (only open Tues-Sat 12-16). I was getting discouraged on finding much to do with my time here.

I decided to take a walk around the harbor and maybe see some fish being unloaded. Fishing is a big business in Kodiak (and Alaska in general). Kodiak is home base to over 2000 fishing vessels. They fish for salmon, herring, halibut, cod, pollock, and (of course ) crabs.

Kodiak fishing fleet

The boardwalk was quiet and lined with plaques explaining about the harbor and fishing industry of Kodiak. I stopped to talk to a group of local fishermen enjoying their morning coffees and smokes. They were in high spirits and looking forward to a good catch. I wished them good luck and continued to the end of the boardwalk and over across the street to the Ace Hardware (where I was looking for a few items).

Across the harbor is a shopping center with a few popular bars and restaurants. My crew had already told me how they enjoyed their time at Tony’s. It was still too early for me to want lunch, but I checked out the menus they had posted at Henry’s Great Alaskan (and couldn’t believe the prices!).

Wandering back to the boat, I noticed a few interesting murals/photos posted around town. They’re part of an exhibit of the Kodiak Maritime Museum that I was really interested in. They have those QR codes where you can scan them with your smartphone and find out more information. Too bad I couldn’t get that to work on my phone.

Next to Trident Seafoods is a big parking lot for the harbor, with a boat ramp and an exhibit of the old canneries. There’s also a little boat there with an interesting story. the “Thelma C“. She was a typical salmon seine boat, maybe the last survivor of this type of vessel. Saved by the people of Alaska and the Kodiak Maritime Museum.

All in all, a good mornings walk. I needed to get back to the boat. Hope to be able to come back to Kodiak again in time to see the bears. 🙂

Real WILD Bears! Kodiak Island Alaska

I haven’t had much work since the covid shots came out. Before that, things were finally starting to pick up from the last crash in oil prices and I was getting more work. I’ve had almost nothing since I was laid off late 2015.

Then, I just had to quarantine for weeks before I could join the ship. Locked up in a hotel room. Daily covid tests with a stick so far up your nose you’d think your brain was going to start leaking out. Cold food. Nothing to do but think about how things were so screwed up or distract oneself with mindless crap on TV. Well, at least I was getting paid. I had to consider myself lucky that I had an approved by the elites (“essential”) job.

No work for 5 years due to low oil prices and another 3 now of covid crap and I’m REALLY sick of it! Not that I’ve been physically sick for even 1 day since the covid crap started, but mentally? Yeah, that crap’s been doing a pretty good job of destroying my peace of mind, my daily sense of magnanimity, my outlook on society and life in general.

Lately things have been a little better. I finally got approved to teach again at San Jacinto Maritime College. I was teaching there part time before they had to shut down due to covid. I had to re-apply since it had been so long ago. I was ready to start with a couple of tankerman classes they had lined up for me when another job I’d been hoping for finally came through.

Of course I’d rather be out on a boat anytime than doing anything ashore, so I pissed off my boss at school and jumped at the chance to actually go somewhere other than the Gulf of Mexico for a change. So. Here I am now aboard the M/V Bluefin.

I left home at 0300 Sunday Jun 4 to fly to Kodiak, AK. I wish I was able to leave a couple of days earlier and do some exploring around town before joining the vessel, but I went straight to the boat- exhausted. They let me sleep late (amazing) and gave me the rundown Monday.

The Bluefin is an old fishing boat that’s been converted for research. We are chartered to NOAA to service their buoys all over the world. For this voyage, we are working the North Pacific Ocean. I joined in Kodiak, AK and will be getting off when we reach Yokahama, Japan. It took us about a week and a half to make our way here to Dutch Harbor from Kodiak.

We checked out about a half dozen buoys on the way. Also had to shelter for weather for a couple of days in Shearwater Bay (S side of Kodiak Island)- that’s where the bears were. One of the crew onboard- AB John- had a drone. He takes some amazing pictures (check out his Instagram). He sent his drone over to get some shots of the bears- they were too far away to see much more than big fur balls from the ship (that’s it in the background). Sadly, his drone ran out of juice on the way back to the ship and sank.

I was expecting the weather to be better- more like summer. It is the middle of June already. It’s nice that it doesn’t get dark til almost midnight, but so many days have been overcast, rainy, windy and rough. I’m really impressed with how well they’re able to work those buoys.

The Bluefin is technically a Dynamic Positioning vessel since it has a DP system onboard, but it’s not classed and they “never” use it. I rarely even notice them using the bow thruster. They tell me they usually only take an hour or so to work a buoy, but a couple of times so far we’ve spent 2-3 hours hanging on.

Yes, they literally hang on to the mooring of the buoy while the technicians are checking everything out. We can’t put any strain on the line, so have to maneuver the vessel so that we stay in position very close to where we picked up the buoy and put it on deck. So far, I haven’t had the chance to work a buoy. I’m on watch from 2330-0730 (fantastic watch schedules on here!), so I’ve mostly just been driving the boat. A couple of times they were still working the buoy but the mate wanted to finish the job rather than have me take over (when I’ve never run this boat before).

So we finished up our last one before our planned crew change in Dutch Harbor just in time to avoid another strong weather system. We arrived late afternoon on the 17th. The weather was beautiful. Sun shining and warm for a change- but I was sleeping. Saturday morning was cold and rainy again but I didn’t want to miss a chance to go ashore. I went to the grocery store with the cook and stocked up my stash of snacks- for some reason the owner doesn’t like to supply the boat with that kind of stuff (cereal, chips, sweets, etc) so we all bring our own favorites.

After shopping, we went for lunch at the Grand Aluetian Hotel. They had a really nice buffet. breakfast/lunch with all the usual- plus. Made to order omelettes, prime rib, ham, biscuits and sausage gravy, chicken breasts, baked halibut, pancakes, blueberry muffins, danish, bagels with cream cheese and lox, macaroni salad, potato salad, nice green salad with all the fixin’s, fruit tray (canteloupe, melon, pineapple, grapes, strawberries), smoked salmon, and a fantastic dessert table full of delicious sweets (chocolate layer cake, pecan pie, lemon meringue pie, cheesecake, brownie bites, petit fours, pudding, lemon bars, and more).

I went back again and again, pretty much stuffed myself. Needed those sweets like I need a hole in my head, but damn they were good! I spent about $50, but it was worth it (cost $49 plus tip). They have a seafood buffet on Wednesdays. Everyone says it’s amazing and “not to be missed”. That one costs $65 but I don’t think we’ll still be here by Wednesday.

Yesterday I got to go with the cook again. We went to the store again to check on some last minute grocery items. I found a couple of interesting books on Alaska and fishing (hopefully will review them here after I read them).

We drove around a bit, searching for a good lookout to get a few nice photos. We found the cultural museum (where I discovered my camera battery was dead)- it was closed- and the military museum– it was closed too. We spotted the ‘famous’ Russian onion domed church from afar, but it looked pretty far way so we skipped it. We found a real interesting old house of a former radio station and the ruins of an underground hospital. We never found a great lookout, conscious of other crew also wanting to get ashore and needing the van we were driving around in. We decided to check out the famous “rat bar” and then head back to the boat.

The Norwegian Rat is the best bar in Dutch (at least the only one we found). It sits right on the bay and has fantastic views of the beach and the boats sailing by. They have a huge fire pit outside and I can imagine how sweet that must be when it gets dark in the early afternoon. They had a pretty decent menu, it was hard to decide what I wanted. All kinds of burgers and sandwiches, chicken wings, spinach/artichoke dip, nachos, chili, gumbo, steaks, pizzas, etc. I finally decided on a pizza (pepperoni, mushroom and onion) and Derrick had chili (home-made) and nachos. The pizza was great and cheers from Derrick on the chili too.

Seems I’ll miss out on a lot of the things I was hoping to do here. The military (WWII) museum is closed for repairs and the Cultural museum was not open until Tuesday (today) from 11-16. I’m not sure if I’ll make it over to town again today. Still, I’m glad to be here at all and looking forward to Yokahama.